Monday, June 6
Our only driving agenda today is to get from our hotel airport to the car rental return at the airport. A five minute drive. (Does the chorus from Gilligan's Island come to mind? "A three hour tour?!")
Actually we get to the airport without any major hiccups. But how do we return the car? After three circles of the airport parking lot, we find the entrance to the car return...but we had legitimate causes for delay. First, they don't call car rental by the term we're used to. They call it "car hire" and when we see signs for "car hire" we aren't sure if that's the right way to go or not. Secondly, when we finally find our way to the right place, we see the sign with all the car rental logos lying on the ground. It seems they're under construction in the parking lot, and so the best location for such a sign is where the rodents can read it.
But we have done it! We've rented a car for ten days in Italy...the home of notoriously crazy drivers...and returned it without a crash! Go John and Jacque!
But let me tell you the story of a faux pax that occurred yesterday which may have me on the car rental companies' high alert status.
On the well maintained, speedy highways here, called autostradas, there are many tolls (which explains their well maintained status). You're driving along and you come to a toll booth where you grab a ticket. After a bit, you'll find another toll booth where you pay for this stretch of road. Sometimes the tolls are insignificant, but sometimes a considerable charge upwards of 20 euro.
When you approach the toll booths you have to make a quick assessment...you need to find the correct lane. There are "Tele Pass" lanes (like our Fast Trak), "Card" lanes (where you use some kind of prepaid ticket, I assume), and "Cash" lanes (which is where we should go). Now, let me repeat...you need to find the right lane quickly! And remember, we have four highly educated travelers in the car to help assess this travel decision.
So, as you might have guessed, on one occasion (seriously....just once!...well if you don't count the time we had to back out and move) we get in the wrong lane. We are in serious traffic and cars are surrounding us. Oh no! We're in the Tele Pass lane and this is not a manned station. Cars are on our butt! What to do?! John quickly assesses our situation and notices a "help" button. He pushes it. No one answers. Just the pole goes up and we go through. Well that was simple...or was it!?!
What's going to happen when we get to the next toll booth? It will be manned, hopefully, and we can confess our sin and pay the piper. Alas! Next set of booths is also unmanned. (As our luck would have it, the toll booth workers were on strike.) We are approaching the booths, and we are all thinking as fast as our travel weary brains can process...and seriously don't know what to do. John makes a decision. We're going through the Tele Pass lane. Of course there are cameras recording the Tele Pass cars. I'm convinced that we're going to jail...or at least we'll make the news..."Wanted...Americani Touristos!"
But from my reading, I remember that there are cameras all along these European roads. When they record you speeding, or breaking some other law, they just send you your fine. When in a rental car, they fine the rental company. And the rental company charges the credit card they've kept on file.
Yikes! It's my credit card on file! I hope our kids don't mind that they've just lost their inheritance!
Tuesday, June 7, 2016
TOURISTS vs. tourists
Sunday, June 5
It's Sunday. A day of worship. And the church bells are gonging and stirring my soul. I am so thankful to God for this wonderfully amazing trip. And what's this? Sunshine!
I am thrilled that we get to see Santa Margherita in non-stormy weather. I'm sitting on our balcony and down below they're putting the cushions on the pool chairs (we haven't seen that before!). The sun is glistening off the white cabanas and the boats are gliding on the sea. So beautiful!
After breakfast we drive to Portofino. So charming!! A couple of days ago the weather report said that it might not rain between 9:00 a.m. and 11:00 a.m. Could this be true? Then last night the weather report said no rain for the day. But I don't really believe it. So we head to this town early hoping we may actually have a few minutes without rain. And this turns out to our advantage because the quaint town is quite sleepy at 9:00 a.m. We feel like we have the town to ourselves.
We climb up to Castello Brown to enjoy the view. And what a view it is!! Besides the gorgeous old Italian buildings with all the shutters, there's a harbor full of yachts. And...did I mention...it's not raining!!
The sunny morning continues, but now we're swallowed in a sea of TOURISTS! Those darn tourists...they're messing with our charming scene. Even though I realize this is a ludicrous statement...since we are tourists...it's really how I think. There are tourists and then there are TOURISTS! TOURISTS seem to cluster in large groups cutting off the walkways. They're always following some funny pole or umbrella. They push and shove to stay with their group. They wear fanny packs and sometimes use walking sticks. We are only tourists with small letters.
The sunshine continues. Ahhhh...what a beautiful day! We enjoy a drink and a snack while enjoying the view of the harbor. Then we do some shopping. Then we enjoy a drink and a snack while enjoying the view of the harbor. It's a perfect day for doing nothing...while sitting on the dock of the bay.
But all wonderful things must come to an end. We've got to get to Milan to spend the night and catch our plane in the morning. So good-bye Portofino! We love you!
Driving on these winding roads is challenging. The roads are very narrow and yet people are strolling along them. So you have to maneuver around the families on their strolls while trying to stay in your own lane because you're approaching a curve. Then around the curve comes a big tour bus! And of course this is all happening on a steep hillside. But the craziest people on the road are the motorcyclists. They weave in and out of cars and pass cars on blind curves. I've never seen so many crazy people with death wishes!
Driving, under normal conditions, in a foreign country can be nerve wracking. But I've decided Jacque should be called St. Jacqueline of the Roadways. She is given the non-enviable job of navigating while John is driving. And she doesn't want to upset him when he's already a bit on edge, concentrating on these crazy roads while surrounded with speedy Italian drivers. So this is how the conversations go:
Jacque: Oh John dear, I believe all the cars are facing us. Perhaps this is a one way street. Do you think we could maybe turn around in a few moments?
Jacque: Sugar Dumpling, I read somewhere that those who are already in the round-about have the right of way. Could that be why the motorcyclist is honking and waving wildly? But don't worry…perhaps he's just overly friendly!
Jacque: King of my Castle, the lady on Google Maps suggested we make a right turn here. (...speeding past). Oh well, Sweetie Pie, of course you know best!
(So...maybe our driving is screaming TOURISTS with capital letters!)
All kidding aside...seriously I'm just so thankful I'm not driving! This is craziness!
We finally make it to our hotel near the airport without loss of life. That's worth celebrating!
It's Sunday. A day of worship. And the church bells are gonging and stirring my soul. I am so thankful to God for this wonderfully amazing trip. And what's this? Sunshine!
I am thrilled that we get to see Santa Margherita in non-stormy weather. I'm sitting on our balcony and down below they're putting the cushions on the pool chairs (we haven't seen that before!). The sun is glistening off the white cabanas and the boats are gliding on the sea. So beautiful!
After breakfast we drive to Portofino. So charming!! A couple of days ago the weather report said that it might not rain between 9:00 a.m. and 11:00 a.m. Could this be true? Then last night the weather report said no rain for the day. But I don't really believe it. So we head to this town early hoping we may actually have a few minutes without rain. And this turns out to our advantage because the quaint town is quite sleepy at 9:00 a.m. We feel like we have the town to ourselves.
We climb up to Castello Brown to enjoy the view. And what a view it is!! Besides the gorgeous old Italian buildings with all the shutters, there's a harbor full of yachts. And...did I mention...it's not raining!!
The sunny morning continues, but now we're swallowed in a sea of TOURISTS! Those darn tourists...they're messing with our charming scene. Even though I realize this is a ludicrous statement...since we are tourists...it's really how I think. There are tourists and then there are TOURISTS! TOURISTS seem to cluster in large groups cutting off the walkways. They're always following some funny pole or umbrella. They push and shove to stay with their group. They wear fanny packs and sometimes use walking sticks. We are only tourists with small letters.
The sunshine continues. Ahhhh...what a beautiful day! We enjoy a drink and a snack while enjoying the view of the harbor. Then we do some shopping. Then we enjoy a drink and a snack while enjoying the view of the harbor. It's a perfect day for doing nothing...while sitting on the dock of the bay.
But all wonderful things must come to an end. We've got to get to Milan to spend the night and catch our plane in the morning. So good-bye Portofino! We love you!
Driving on these winding roads is challenging. The roads are very narrow and yet people are strolling along them. So you have to maneuver around the families on their strolls while trying to stay in your own lane because you're approaching a curve. Then around the curve comes a big tour bus! And of course this is all happening on a steep hillside. But the craziest people on the road are the motorcyclists. They weave in and out of cars and pass cars on blind curves. I've never seen so many crazy people with death wishes!
Driving, under normal conditions, in a foreign country can be nerve wracking. But I've decided Jacque should be called St. Jacqueline of the Roadways. She is given the non-enviable job of navigating while John is driving. And she doesn't want to upset him when he's already a bit on edge, concentrating on these crazy roads while surrounded with speedy Italian drivers. So this is how the conversations go:
Jacque: Oh John dear, I believe all the cars are facing us. Perhaps this is a one way street. Do you think we could maybe turn around in a few moments?
Jacque: Sugar Dumpling, I read somewhere that those who are already in the round-about have the right of way. Could that be why the motorcyclist is honking and waving wildly? But don't worry…perhaps he's just overly friendly!
Jacque: King of my Castle, the lady on Google Maps suggested we make a right turn here. (...speeding past). Oh well, Sweetie Pie, of course you know best!
(So...maybe our driving is screaming TOURISTS with capital letters!)
All kidding aside...seriously I'm just so thankful I'm not driving! This is craziness!
We finally make it to our hotel near the airport without loss of life. That's worth celebrating!
Saturday, June 4, 2016
Rain Here, Rain There, Rain Everywhere
Saturday, June 4
The weather is nothing but consistent...pouring rain. But I keep thinking of those poor souls in Paris. The flooding there is out of control. They've had to close the Louvre and the Musee D'Orsay. No boats but police boats are allowed on the Seine. I feel sorry for the tourists arriving there with plans for the great museums and a dinner cruise on the Seine. We may get wet but we aren't in a life threatening situation! Poor Paris...still suffering from the terrorist attacks, and now this! To think...I could have easily reversed the order of this trip and we could be ending it in that location. Thank you, God, for your travel mercies.
Well what is one to do when it is raining? Shop! You can always shop! So we enjoy the shops of Santa Margherita. Jacque wants us to see Portofino because it is charming also (and very close), and she thinks we'd really enjoy it, but....how much rain can we enjoy??? Will the rain be any more beautiful in Portofino than it is in Santa Margherita??
So, we take some time to rest and enjoy the view…of the rain…from our room. But even a rainy scene is a beautiful one with the beach in front of you (especially if you're staying dry!)
Later we head to dinner at the same neighborhood trattoria that we went to last night. After all...the food was great! We're celebrating Jacque's special birthday and having a generally wonderful time. Larry and I enjoy our last tastes of the Ligurian sea's fresh seafood with fritto misto (assorted fried seafood) and spaghetti con vongole (with clams) while John and Jacque enjoy the veal marsala. We all love our food.
After dinner we notice that…believe it or not…it's not raining! So we take a beautiful stroll along the harbor to enjoy the lights of the city from the end of the harbor and to see all the yachts. Jacque picks out the one she wants to purchase. It's about the size of a small town. Santa Margherita is so gorgeous tonight…with the lights on the church, twinkly lights on the stores, lit up yachts reflecting onto the water, the lapping of the waves, and the warmth of a non-rainy June evening.
Santa Margherita, you will always own a piece of our hearts!
The weather is nothing but consistent...pouring rain. But I keep thinking of those poor souls in Paris. The flooding there is out of control. They've had to close the Louvre and the Musee D'Orsay. No boats but police boats are allowed on the Seine. I feel sorry for the tourists arriving there with plans for the great museums and a dinner cruise on the Seine. We may get wet but we aren't in a life threatening situation! Poor Paris...still suffering from the terrorist attacks, and now this! To think...I could have easily reversed the order of this trip and we could be ending it in that location. Thank you, God, for your travel mercies.
Well what is one to do when it is raining? Shop! You can always shop! So we enjoy the shops of Santa Margherita. Jacque wants us to see Portofino because it is charming also (and very close), and she thinks we'd really enjoy it, but....how much rain can we enjoy??? Will the rain be any more beautiful in Portofino than it is in Santa Margherita??
So, we take some time to rest and enjoy the view…of the rain…from our room. But even a rainy scene is a beautiful one with the beach in front of you (especially if you're staying dry!)
Later we head to dinner at the same neighborhood trattoria that we went to last night. After all...the food was great! We're celebrating Jacque's special birthday and having a generally wonderful time. Larry and I enjoy our last tastes of the Ligurian sea's fresh seafood with fritto misto (assorted fried seafood) and spaghetti con vongole (with clams) while John and Jacque enjoy the veal marsala. We all love our food.
After dinner we notice that…believe it or not…it's not raining! So we take a beautiful stroll along the harbor to enjoy the lights of the city from the end of the harbor and to see all the yachts. Jacque picks out the one she wants to purchase. It's about the size of a small town. Santa Margherita is so gorgeous tonight…with the lights on the church, twinkly lights on the stores, lit up yachts reflecting onto the water, the lapping of the waves, and the warmth of a non-rainy June evening.
Santa Margherita, you will always own a piece of our hearts!
Friday, June 3, 2016
Heading to the Coast
Friday, June 3
The international news this morning is featuring the flooding in Paris. Evidently they've had to close the Louvre and move much of the art work. I'm hoping that they won't realize that we are responsible for bringing those storms to their lovely city.
Today we say our good-byes to Jamal and head to the Ligurian coast, to the lovely resort town of Santa Margherita. We made sure to book a hotel on the beach with seaside rooms. This is the leg of our Italian journey that I've been most looking forward to. A leisurely boat ride to nearby seaside villages. Blue skies and an even bluer sea. Walks on the beach; a swim in their beautiful pool. Birre and calamari at an outdoor cafe. Ahhh...sounds wonderful, doesn't it? But, for us, more rain is in the forecast. I'm sure we'll still enjoy ourselves.
We arrive and Santa Margherita is every bit as charming as we had hoped...even with overcast skies. Larry and I enjoy a lunch of frito misto (assorted fried seafood) and are in our happy place. Then we decide to have a drink poolside. Because of the gray skies...we have the place to ourselves and make the most of it. Occasionally we see...can it be?...sunshine! We bask in every moment of sun that we can get! It is so relaxing in our little bit of sunshine that we fall asleep. Ahhh!
Our hotel has recommended a nearby trattoria for dinner. The food is fabulous! We have Veal Piccata and Veal Marsala as well as Spaghetti con Vongole (with clams). Absolutely delicious! But the service....very slow. I've read that in Italy slow service is good service so I keep repeating that mantra in my head, "slow service is good service; slow service is good service." But all the other tables around us have received their food even if they ordered long after us. We realize that many of the other tables are filled with locals, so we try to understand that the regulars would get better service. But time has marched on. John finally signals our waitress, who doesn't speak English, and then she looks flustered. Food starts arriving rapidly. I think they actually forgot about us. But that's o.k, cuz the food is fabulous.
The international news this morning is featuring the flooding in Paris. Evidently they've had to close the Louvre and move much of the art work. I'm hoping that they won't realize that we are responsible for bringing those storms to their lovely city.
Today we say our good-byes to Jamal and head to the Ligurian coast, to the lovely resort town of Santa Margherita. We made sure to book a hotel on the beach with seaside rooms. This is the leg of our Italian journey that I've been most looking forward to. A leisurely boat ride to nearby seaside villages. Blue skies and an even bluer sea. Walks on the beach; a swim in their beautiful pool. Birre and calamari at an outdoor cafe. Ahhh...sounds wonderful, doesn't it? But, for us, more rain is in the forecast. I'm sure we'll still enjoy ourselves.
We arrive and Santa Margherita is every bit as charming as we had hoped...even with overcast skies. Larry and I enjoy a lunch of frito misto (assorted fried seafood) and are in our happy place. Then we decide to have a drink poolside. Because of the gray skies...we have the place to ourselves and make the most of it. Occasionally we see...can it be?...sunshine! We bask in every moment of sun that we can get! It is so relaxing in our little bit of sunshine that we fall asleep. Ahhh!
Our hotel has recommended a nearby trattoria for dinner. The food is fabulous! We have Veal Piccata and Veal Marsala as well as Spaghetti con Vongole (with clams). Absolutely delicious! But the service....very slow. I've read that in Italy slow service is good service so I keep repeating that mantra in my head, "slow service is good service; slow service is good service." But all the other tables around us have received their food even if they ordered long after us. We realize that many of the other tables are filled with locals, so we try to understand that the regulars would get better service. But time has marched on. John finally signals our waitress, who doesn't speak English, and then she looks flustered. Food starts arriving rapidly. I think they actually forgot about us. But that's o.k, cuz the food is fabulous.
Castles Italian Style
Thursday, June 2
Today is an Italian holiday. What should we do to celebrate? What to do? What to do? We decide to take the rain to Florence...I mean the train...well, actually we are taking the train AND the rain to Florence.
Jamal, our host, has insured us that we have PLENTY of time to get to the speedy train in Figline Valdarno that will take us to Florence. But...of course...we miss it....but we were only two minutes late! We're getting faster!
Our first goal in Florence is to get to Piazzale Michelangiolo to see the wonderful view that Jamal has told us we must not miss. When we get off the train, we notice the black clouds overhead and try to rush to this piazza to enjoy the view before the downpour begins. So we walk, and walk, and walk, and then climb, and climb, and climb (if you want a view you must head up!) and get there with a bit of sunshine. Maybe our luck is changing...or maybe we'd better hurry and get some cover before the storm hits.
We head down the hill and find a cafe. We sit outside until the downpour hits and then we move inside. We have the sweetest waitress. Jacque & I have been talking about buying gold in Florence...which it is known for. I tell her that the shops on Ponte Vecchio (the famous old bridge of Florence) may be more expensive than others so let's ask the waitress about this. The waitress says, "Yes, the shops on Ponte Vecchio may be expensive...because you can say it is from Ponte Vecchio." So I ask her, "So...where do you buy your gold?" She shows us her naked neck and arms, "I don't!" she replies.
We head to the Ponte Vecchio and Jacque does some shopping for beautiful gold pieces.
Then I suggest we continue heading away from the duomo because I haven't seen this part of Florence before. I know the Boboli Gardens are in this direction, but gardens & rain may not be a great combination. We come upon the Pitti Palace. I've read about his place before, but don't know much about it. Oh well, we may as well buy tickets and see what we can see. After all...it fits with our Castles and Culture theme.
Our jaws drop! This place is amazing! This is the palace of the famous Medici's. It is the home of the Grand Duke (which I assume is like a king). So we have seen the ancient palace of the King of England, the present home of the Queen of England (although only the exterior), the castle of the King of France, and now the palace of the Grand Duke in Italy. All I can say, "Wow, Wow! Wow!"
Each room seems more fabulous than the last. The ceilings are utterly amazing! Frescoes are nice, but these are frescoes with sculptures and some gold inlay. Enough to take your breath away. Obviously the Grand Duke is a well paid position!And the art work hung from the walls are numerous. Some are by Raphael and Michelangelo, to name drop a bit.
One curiosity...in the first halls we saw many statues. But most of the male sculptures had the penises lopped off. Why, I wonder? And while we're on the topic of unmentionables...there was one painting where a woman's nipples are being attacked by gigantic iron tongs. Just the kind of art work I'd love to hang in my bedroom. Gazing at that would certainly put me in the mood...for revenge, perhaps. Hmmm...maybe I should have gotten an audio guide.
We see the public rooms: banquet rooms, the throne room, meeting rooms, the music room, and art work laden hallways. We also see the private rooms: a more private living room, bedrooms,and smaller meeting rooms. The Boboli Gardens are just outside. They are supposed to be stunning. But these touristas have had enough for this day. Besides...if you've seen one gorgeous garden in the rain (and we've seen several)...you've seen plenty.
Speaking of the rain...it continues to follow us. You know the phrase, "The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plane." Well we've altered the phrase to, "The rain in Europe falls mainly on US!" But we're not complaining about it, just laughing about it. We've seen too many incredible things to complain. Our agritourismo host said that it gets very hot here in the summer. Larry told him that for the price of airfare we'd come back and bring a cooling rain.
After touring Pitti Palace, we head back to the train station, take the train back to Figline Valdarno, get our car and get back to Jamal's place...easily! How can this be??
Jamal is so impressed that we managed to make it back in time for dinner. And the dinner...quite a feast! The dining room is filled with guests this evening. The couple next to us is from Singapore. Other guests are from Canada and Texas. There are many more guests, but we didn't get to interrogate them...I mean converse with them. The place is lively! The guests are interesting. The food is delicious. And the decor is eclectic (from Jamal's many travels to different parts of the world). What a great last night at Villa Poggio di Gaville!
Today is an Italian holiday. What should we do to celebrate? What to do? What to do? We decide to take the rain to Florence...I mean the train...well, actually we are taking the train AND the rain to Florence.
Jamal, our host, has insured us that we have PLENTY of time to get to the speedy train in Figline Valdarno that will take us to Florence. But...of course...we miss it....but we were only two minutes late! We're getting faster!
Our first goal in Florence is to get to Piazzale Michelangiolo to see the wonderful view that Jamal has told us we must not miss. When we get off the train, we notice the black clouds overhead and try to rush to this piazza to enjoy the view before the downpour begins. So we walk, and walk, and walk, and then climb, and climb, and climb (if you want a view you must head up!) and get there with a bit of sunshine. Maybe our luck is changing...or maybe we'd better hurry and get some cover before the storm hits.
We head down the hill and find a cafe. We sit outside until the downpour hits and then we move inside. We have the sweetest waitress. Jacque & I have been talking about buying gold in Florence...which it is known for. I tell her that the shops on Ponte Vecchio (the famous old bridge of Florence) may be more expensive than others so let's ask the waitress about this. The waitress says, "Yes, the shops on Ponte Vecchio may be expensive...because you can say it is from Ponte Vecchio." So I ask her, "So...where do you buy your gold?" She shows us her naked neck and arms, "I don't!" she replies.
We head to the Ponte Vecchio and Jacque does some shopping for beautiful gold pieces.
Then I suggest we continue heading away from the duomo because I haven't seen this part of Florence before. I know the Boboli Gardens are in this direction, but gardens & rain may not be a great combination. We come upon the Pitti Palace. I've read about his place before, but don't know much about it. Oh well, we may as well buy tickets and see what we can see. After all...it fits with our Castles and Culture theme.
Our jaws drop! This place is amazing! This is the palace of the famous Medici's. It is the home of the Grand Duke (which I assume is like a king). So we have seen the ancient palace of the King of England, the present home of the Queen of England (although only the exterior), the castle of the King of France, and now the palace of the Grand Duke in Italy. All I can say, "Wow, Wow! Wow!"
Each room seems more fabulous than the last. The ceilings are utterly amazing! Frescoes are nice, but these are frescoes with sculptures and some gold inlay. Enough to take your breath away. Obviously the Grand Duke is a well paid position!And the art work hung from the walls are numerous. Some are by Raphael and Michelangelo, to name drop a bit.
One curiosity...in the first halls we saw many statues. But most of the male sculptures had the penises lopped off. Why, I wonder? And while we're on the topic of unmentionables...there was one painting where a woman's nipples are being attacked by gigantic iron tongs. Just the kind of art work I'd love to hang in my bedroom. Gazing at that would certainly put me in the mood...for revenge, perhaps. Hmmm...maybe I should have gotten an audio guide.
We see the public rooms: banquet rooms, the throne room, meeting rooms, the music room, and art work laden hallways. We also see the private rooms: a more private living room, bedrooms,and smaller meeting rooms. The Boboli Gardens are just outside. They are supposed to be stunning. But these touristas have had enough for this day. Besides...if you've seen one gorgeous garden in the rain (and we've seen several)...you've seen plenty.
Speaking of the rain...it continues to follow us. You know the phrase, "The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plane." Well we've altered the phrase to, "The rain in Europe falls mainly on US!" But we're not complaining about it, just laughing about it. We've seen too many incredible things to complain. Our agritourismo host said that it gets very hot here in the summer. Larry told him that for the price of airfare we'd come back and bring a cooling rain.
After touring Pitti Palace, we head back to the train station, take the train back to Figline Valdarno, get our car and get back to Jamal's place...easily! How can this be??
Jamal is so impressed that we managed to make it back in time for dinner. And the dinner...quite a feast! The dining room is filled with guests this evening. The couple next to us is from Singapore. Other guests are from Canada and Texas. There are many more guests, but we didn't get to interrogate them...I mean converse with them. The place is lively! The guests are interesting. The food is delicious. And the decor is eclectic (from Jamal's many travels to different parts of the world). What a great last night at Villa Poggio di Gaville!
Wednesday, June 1, 2016
Wet in Siena
Wednesday, June 1
As Jacque and I are checking out of our cute little apartment, Larry tells me we need to find an alternate route out of this town. Huh? It seems a little market has set up outside our hotel and throughout the piazza and the guys are afraid....very afraid...after all...our luggage is already more than full.
But a street market?! What good fortune! I have wanted to be in the right town on the right day to find a street market. Although I've tried to plan this, it has never worked out. Now that I'm not trying to plan it...voila! One appears! We enjoy shopping at the various stalls.
Jacque finds a vendor that is selling just what she needs...a big piece of luggage to hold her purchases. Where there's a will there's a way!
We've decided that rather than taking the same route back to our farmhouse, we'll take an alternate route on highways/autostradas and visit Siena. We park outside the old city walls (as you must do here) and walk about 15 minutes to find the piazza where the famous Palio (horse race) is held. We find a restaurant for lunch and are enjoying ourselves.
When suddenly...a downpour!! A serious downpour! We are so glad that we are still at our table under an awning, because everyone else is scrambling. And this torrential rain storm is not letting up! So we have another lengthy lunch...cuz we're not giving up our dry table. But we can't eat and drink forever. (Even WE can't eat and drink forever!) Who cares about sightseeing? Who cares about shopping? We just buy ponchos and try to get to our car before getting drenched!
We make it to the town where our agriturismo is located without getting lost once!! A miracle! We want to eat before heading to our rooms and we need to head to our rooms before it gets dark (a scary drive after dark). And we can't find anything open because it's only 6:00 p.m. and the restaurants are still closed from their afternoon break. So we drive around aimlessly waiting for 7:00 when the American Diner opens. A hamburger sounds so good right now.
Jacque makes an observation. It has rained in every town we have visited. We seem to bring the rain with us. At least in San Gimignano it was only a light shower in the evening. I wonder where we'll bring the rain tomorrow.
As Jacque and I are checking out of our cute little apartment, Larry tells me we need to find an alternate route out of this town. Huh? It seems a little market has set up outside our hotel and throughout the piazza and the guys are afraid....very afraid...after all...our luggage is already more than full.
the view from our window in the cute little apartment, San Gimignano
But a street market?! What good fortune! I have wanted to be in the right town on the right day to find a street market. Although I've tried to plan this, it has never worked out. Now that I'm not trying to plan it...voila! One appears! We enjoy shopping at the various stalls.
Jacque finds a vendor that is selling just what she needs...a big piece of luggage to hold her purchases. Where there's a will there's a way!
We've decided that rather than taking the same route back to our farmhouse, we'll take an alternate route on highways/autostradas and visit Siena. We park outside the old city walls (as you must do here) and walk about 15 minutes to find the piazza where the famous Palio (horse race) is held. We find a restaurant for lunch and are enjoying ourselves.
When suddenly...a downpour!! A serious downpour! We are so glad that we are still at our table under an awning, because everyone else is scrambling. And this torrential rain storm is not letting up! So we have another lengthy lunch...cuz we're not giving up our dry table. But we can't eat and drink forever. (Even WE can't eat and drink forever!) Who cares about sightseeing? Who cares about shopping? We just buy ponchos and try to get to our car before getting drenched!
Can you see the raindrops? It was pouring. The piazza was quickly evacuated.
Jacque makes an observation. It has rained in every town we have visited. We seem to bring the rain with us. At least in San Gimignano it was only a light shower in the evening. I wonder where we'll bring the rain tomorrow.
La Dolce Vita
Tuesday, May 31
Today we get to go to San Gimignano, the hill town with the towers, a town in Tuscany that I have wanted to visit. We are going to meet Nicoletta for lunch in San Gimignano's piazza at noon. Since the drive is supposed to be little more than an hour, we leave at 10:00 a.m. And arrive as 12:15. Are you noticing a pattern here? We are amazingly talented at getting lost!
We have been sent on a small road, rather than a highway, with a warning to not get off this road because the "other road" is very windy. Well, I'm not sure which road we were on...but it sure was full of twists and turns. The roadway itself is beautiful. The area is lush and the overgrown greenery is lovely. Passing by hilltop villas and castles adds a real Italian taste to the journey. But the problem is...if you feel lost there are no signs to tell you where you are so that you can get re-oriented. We have a GPS system on the phone, but our American phone is not particularly fond of these Italian roads...and it refuses to help us much of the time. I don't know if it is because we have entered into GPS black holes or if our American tour guide (GPS) just doesn't know these roads. (And when it is working, its Italian accent is hysterical!)
I'm noticing that these winding roads are doing a number on my tummy. I'm feeling a bit like I did last night and we still have to face the drive home. Uh oh!
We have a lovely lunch with Nicoletta. And while we're sitting there for our three hour lunch (typical) I've got my phone out under the table. I'm searching for a hotel nearby where we could sleep and make the journey back tomorrow. My tummy thinks this would be a good idea, but would it be rude of me to even suggest such a thing? I find a small hotel in the town that has two rooms available. I wonder....
And then I look up and the hotel that I've been reading about is right next door to the restaurant where we're eating. I wonder...
Well...after thinking about it for a bit I dare to make the proposal. We have no clothes, or meds, or anything, but everyone is agreeable. I love our travel buddies!
I go into the hotel and register for rooms...we settle upon an adorable apartment with two bedrooms. The hotel clerk asks about our luggage. "It's in Greve!" I explain to her. "We don't even have toothbrushes!" I tell her. She says she'll be glad to give us toothbrushes.
Then we enjoy a stroll around the town. We get gelato from the self proclaimed "best gelatoria in the world". Nicoletta explains that there are actually two gelatorias in this small piazza that have been rated in the top ten in the world list. Yummy!
And so...we stay in adorable San Gimignano. And I am in love with this quaint town!! We get to watch the bus loads of tourists leave, the sun set, the lights come on, and the locals come out. Molto benne!
We eat a four hour dinner at the same restaurant where we had a three hour lunch. We lounge at this restaurant like the locals...and no one seems to mind. The weather is wonderful (for a change) and the ambience is amazing.
A musician serenades us from the piazza. Young lovers sit on the steps of the well in the center of the piazza eating bread and enjoying their wine. Young children dance to the music without a care. Elderly citizens pop their heads out of upstairs windows. The guys enjoy cognac and cigars in the piazza. Jacque and I share a dessert and enjoy the slow pulse of this charming village. Ahhhhh...la dolce vita!
Today we get to go to San Gimignano, the hill town with the towers, a town in Tuscany that I have wanted to visit. We are going to meet Nicoletta for lunch in San Gimignano's piazza at noon. Since the drive is supposed to be little more than an hour, we leave at 10:00 a.m. And arrive as 12:15. Are you noticing a pattern here? We are amazingly talented at getting lost!
San Gimignano--the town of towers
a shop featuring local delicacies...
nothing says San Gimignano more than a boar's head!
I'm noticing that these winding roads are doing a number on my tummy. I'm feeling a bit like I did last night and we still have to face the drive home. Uh oh!
so glad to have Nicoletta joining us again!
And then I look up and the hotel that I've been reading about is right next door to the restaurant where we're eating. I wonder...
Well...after thinking about it for a bit I dare to make the proposal. We have no clothes, or meds, or anything, but everyone is agreeable. I love our travel buddies!
I go into the hotel and register for rooms...we settle upon an adorable apartment with two bedrooms. The hotel clerk asks about our luggage. "It's in Greve!" I explain to her. "We don't even have toothbrushes!" I tell her. She says she'll be glad to give us toothbrushes.
Then we enjoy a stroll around the town. We get gelato from the self proclaimed "best gelatoria in the world". Nicoletta explains that there are actually two gelatorias in this small piazza that have been rated in the top ten in the world list. Yummy!
just loving life in San Gimignano
the man who's always behind the camera
We eat a four hour dinner at the same restaurant where we had a three hour lunch. We lounge at this restaurant like the locals...and no one seems to mind. The weather is wonderful (for a change) and the ambience is amazing.
A musician serenades us from the piazza. Young lovers sit on the steps of the well in the center of the piazza eating bread and enjoying their wine. Young children dance to the music without a care. Elderly citizens pop their heads out of upstairs windows. The guys enjoy cognac and cigars in the piazza. Jacque and I share a dessert and enjoy the slow pulse of this charming village. Ahhhhh...la dolce vita!
L-O-S-T
Monday, May 30
Today will be a traveling day. We need to get from Gravedona on Lake Como to Greve area in Chianti. It is supposed to be about a 4 3/4 hour drive. We start off with a nice breakfast, say good-bye to the beautiful lake, and then say a misty good-bye to Giana. We're on the road!
And it's raining...of course! The rain has followed us most of this trip. I brought one long sleeve shirt and have worn it at least half of the days. I'm learning that I really can travel lightly...because I just keep wearing the same few things over and over while all my summer attire stays wrinkled in my suitcase.
We plan to stop in Parma for lunch...home of the prosciutto de Parma, Parma ham, and Parmesan cheese...not a bad choice! Nicoletta has recommended a restaurant in this town which we miraculously find! And the food is delicioso!!
John and I have their specialty of a chicken roll stuffed with Parmesan cheese and Parma ham. Jacque had pumpkin ravioli. And Larry had a mixed seafood sauté. We all loved our lunches...so much so that we had to have dessert. We had to! We had the most velvety panna cotta with three sauces...chocolate, caramel, and strawberry. We left there quite happy...and stuffed!
We find a little shop that sells the white wine that Nicoletta had introduced us to...so we stop to do a little shopping in this delightful store with prosciutto hanging everywhere.
We continue with our drive but when we get near our destination, we realize we are lost. We drive one way, turn around, try another. Our GPS seems confused. I've actually given Jacque the wrong address. We finally call Jamal, the owner of the farmhouse we're trying to get to. He says we're doing fine and should find it in about 20 minutes. Although he speaks English well, it is difficult to understand him on speaker phone with an accent. But we pursue. About an hour later, I call him again. "Oh now, you are five to seven minutes away," and gives us directions. About 40 minutes later we are still driving in circles in this small town.
We see a diner and hope that some kind Italian soul with help us out. The waitress, while rolling about on roller skates says, "Oh, Poggio did Gaville. Yes. Hmmm...it is difficult." This is not a good sign.
But she gives us the best directions she can and off we go. Her directions were actually great. But I had no idea that this agriturismo is so far away from civilization. We drive on so many winding roads that my stomach starts to churn.
Jamal is so relieved to see us arrive. He was about to get in his car and search for us. He has held dinner up for us. It is a great dinner. My stomach is so upset...from the stress of not finding our way and the many, many, many turns along the way...that I can't eat. I think Jamal is offended. I feel so bad but I head to bed. Tomorrow is another day!
Today will be a traveling day. We need to get from Gravedona on Lake Como to Greve area in Chianti. It is supposed to be about a 4 3/4 hour drive. We start off with a nice breakfast, say good-bye to the beautiful lake, and then say a misty good-bye to Giana. We're on the road!
good-bye Lake Como
the town of Parma
John and I have their specialty of a chicken roll stuffed with Parmesan cheese and Parma ham. Jacque had pumpkin ravioli. And Larry had a mixed seafood sauté. We all loved our lunches...so much so that we had to have dessert. We had to! We had the most velvety panna cotta with three sauces...chocolate, caramel, and strawberry. We left there quite happy...and stuffed!
our delightful lunch break in Parma at La Forchetta
silky panna cotta with three sauces...to die for!
dessert after dessert? if you insist!
yep! we're in Parma!
We see a diner and hope that some kind Italian soul with help us out. The waitress, while rolling about on roller skates says, "Oh, Poggio did Gaville. Yes. Hmmm...it is difficult." This is not a good sign.
But she gives us the best directions she can and off we go. Her directions were actually great. But I had no idea that this agriturismo is so far away from civilization. We drive on so many winding roads that my stomach starts to churn.
our charming agriturismo
Poggio di Gaville
a treasure...if you can find it!
Crotch of Como
Sunday, May 29
Today we visit the crotch of Como! (This is not a real phrase, but it's what we call it.) If you look at a map of Lago de Como, the shape of it looks a bit like a person, and the spot between his legs is the area we want to visit today. We have a plan...to make a triangle trip in this crotch area and see some of the most picturesque areas. But what's this? Rain? Well that's never stopped us before, but it may change the plan a bit.
We drive to Villa Carlotta and visit the interior while the rain is pouring. I love this place! It is much lighter in colors and more feminine in nature than the castles we've seen previously. Don't quote me on this...but I believe the villa was built in the late 17th century but was bought for a wedding present for Princess Carlotta in the 1800's. But Princess Carlotta had a short lived marriage. She was married for five years, had three children, and then died at the age of 23 years.
After touring the inside, the rain lets up a bit and we tour the gardens. Magnifico! So many flowers are blooming...there is an entire rhododendron garden in bloom. Roses are everywhere! There is also a bamboo garden. But as we walk around a bend, I gasp! I am truly breathless! This lush, all green, waterfall area is absolutely gorgeous! The beauty makes me teary eyed. I cannot believe that God has allowed me to see such beauty. And I am so grateful.
Next we take a short boat ride across the "crotch" to see Bellagio, probably the most famous of the Lake Como towns. (This is the Bellagio that Las Vegas tries to duplicate.) Bellagio is charming! Bellagio is beautiful! And Bellagio also wants to relieve some of the weight of your money purses. We enjoy the shops.
Now it's time to make a decision...to continue with the original plan or get out of the rain. We decide to head back to Gravedona, dry off, and take the relatives to dinner. Stephano explains that on Sunday evenings they have a special dinner and head to bed early because the children have school in the morning. What is this special Italian family dinner that they all look forward to? "Toast!" Huh? Yes it is toast for dinner and the children can't wait. So we will take Giana to dinner and Stephano will join us for a bit.
When Stephano arrives I ask him, "Toast? Bruschetta, perhaps?" "Si, si!" he replies. Now that makes more sense.
I enjoy a wonderful pizza for dinner. Larry has veal scallopine, which he loves! This scallopine dish is made with Calvados, which is an apple brandy that Floyd told us about when we were in Normandy. And John and Jacque have pasta, pizza, and salads. We all enjoy our food and end our dinners with gelato with Gran Marnier. But what we enjoy even more than our food is our conversation. We are going to miss these relatives, that are not our relatives, very much.
Today we visit the crotch of Como! (This is not a real phrase, but it's what we call it.) If you look at a map of Lago de Como, the shape of it looks a bit like a person, and the spot between his legs is the area we want to visit today. We have a plan...to make a triangle trip in this crotch area and see some of the most picturesque areas. But what's this? Rain? Well that's never stopped us before, but it may change the plan a bit.
We drive to Villa Carlotta and visit the interior while the rain is pouring. I love this place! It is much lighter in colors and more feminine in nature than the castles we've seen previously. Don't quote me on this...but I believe the villa was built in the late 17th century but was bought for a wedding present for Princess Carlotta in the 1800's. But Princess Carlotta had a short lived marriage. She was married for five years, had three children, and then died at the age of 23 years.
beautiful Villa Carlotta
After touring the inside, the rain lets up a bit and we tour the gardens. Magnifico! So many flowers are blooming...there is an entire rhododendron garden in bloom. Roses are everywhere! There is also a bamboo garden. But as we walk around a bend, I gasp! I am truly breathless! This lush, all green, waterfall area is absolutely gorgeous! The beauty makes me teary eyed. I cannot believe that God has allowed me to see such beauty. And I am so grateful.
this area was so gorgeous; it's hard to capture with a picture;
there's a waterfall running through it;
the sounds, the mist, and the great variety of greens took my breath away
a garden area at Villa Carlotta
Now it's time to make a decision...to continue with the original plan or get out of the rain. We decide to head back to Gravedona, dry off, and take the relatives to dinner. Stephano explains that on Sunday evenings they have a special dinner and head to bed early because the children have school in the morning. What is this special Italian family dinner that they all look forward to? "Toast!" Huh? Yes it is toast for dinner and the children can't wait. So we will take Giana to dinner and Stephano will join us for a bit.
When Stephano arrives I ask him, "Toast? Bruschetta, perhaps?" "Si, si!" he replies. Now that makes more sense.
I enjoy a wonderful pizza for dinner. Larry has veal scallopine, which he loves! This scallopine dish is made with Calvados, which is an apple brandy that Floyd told us about when we were in Normandy. And John and Jacque have pasta, pizza, and salads. We all enjoy our food and end our dinners with gelato with Gran Marnier. But what we enjoy even more than our food is our conversation. We are going to miss these relatives, that are not our relatives, very much.
Saturday, May 28, 2016
Speaking Engliano
After a good night's rest, we are feeling pretty chipper! (Personally I had hit a wall! I was afraid I wouldn't be able to enjoy this place as I should. But this morning...I am ready!)
We're meeting John's relatives at 1:00 for lunch at their home. What a privilege to spend time with an Italian family in Italy. I love to visit with locals when traveling, but this is taking that dream to a new level! We enjoy their beautiful yard on the lake and then sit down outside to partake in a feast.
the view from the Riella backyard...WOW!
looks what awaits us!
What a treat!
Enjoying lunch at the Riella homestead...such fun!
Angelo, Giana, Jacque, John, Nicoletta, me, Stephano
We visit the local church where John's father had his first communion. John's father and his father's sister lived here for 15 months when they were about six years of age. The "new" part of the church was built in 1657. But the "old" part of this church is from the 13th century. Wow! We also visited the local cemetery to see where many Riella's were laid to rest.
the Gravedona church
We knew we couldn't speak Italiano but now we can't seem to speak English either. When trying to converse with locals...especially John's family...we try to keep our statements "simple". Instead of a 10 word sentence, we try to say it with 4 words. Simple. Instead of using a 10 letter word, we try to think of a 4 letter synonym (which sometimes takes some thinking time). Simple. But what's comical is that we find ourselves talking to each other this way. We're dropping all adjectives and articles and staring at the sky while we try to think of a simple word to say. We ain't speaking Italian and we ain't really speaking English either. Mathematically speaking it looks like this...
+5 words I remember from three years of high school Spanish
+6 words I've learned in Italian
- half my English vocabulary
= speaking Engliano.
Sweet Giana, our fabulous hostess
Giana and Nina
We had a comical conversation with Giana when we left the restaurant. She's speaking rapidly in Italian. I have no idea what she's speaking about but I hear the words "Obama" and "Gravedona". I wonder....President Obama has visited Gravedona? But after much exchange we realize that she's explaining that the guy in the fancy car is like the Obama of Gravedona (mayor).
We try to decide what to do in the evening...find a nice restaurant? go to the local faire in town? or sit outside our hotel room and stare at the lake? We vote for the latter. We enjoy the beautiful view and watching the towns on the hills light up as the sky darkens. We sip some vino and chat about the wonderful experiences we've enjoyed.
enjoying our balcony overlooking Lake Como
our home in Gravedona, Hotel Tullio, right on Lake Como
owned by a relative of a relative of the Riella's...of course
Friday, May 27, 2016
Buon giorno Gravedona
Friday, May 27
Knock! Knock! Knock! Buon Giorno! We've arrived in Milan. As we wrestle to wake up and get our things together to deboard the train, we have luggage falling on our heads and other mishaps in our tiny compartment. But we manage!
Although riding in a night train is an "experience", it's not the greatest for a restful sleep. So we're all a bit groggy when we arrive in Milan at 5:50 a.m. Since I had reserved the car for 10:00 a.m., (thinking when I was at home and feeling very energetic) that we could venture into Milan Central and see the famed duomo. But right now...none of us much care about another church...so we eat a little breakfast and head to the car rental. But where is this place that's supposed to be 200 meters from the station? We have to ask several people...which there aren't many about at this hour...but we find it, and get our car at 8:00 a.m.
John is our travel guide for the next few days. We are going to visit with some of his family in the town of Gravedona on Lake Como. We go to our hotel, and much to our surprise no one was in our rooms the night before so they let us check in. We freshen up and head to see the relatives.
The view from our hotel room is stunning. We are right on Lake Como, with a view of the Alps, and small villages on the hillsides. Can you beat that?
Giana, John's cousin, greets us warmly and with lots of Italian. I can't understand a word but smile a lot. She is so sweet and if you concentrate and watch her eyes and gestures, you can sometimes figure out what she's trying to say. We also meet up with Nicoletta (who speaks English!!), Angelo, Stephano (who also speaks English!) and his wife Betty and their three children, Elia, Nina, and Milo. They are so cordial and friendly and offer us wine...and more wine...and more wine. My tummy is still doing flips from the Beef Tartare, foie gras, and spicy mustard I had eaten the day before, so I can't handle much wine...or food for that matter.
I love Nicoletta! We had met her at Janelle's wedding and developed a friendship. I have communicated with her when planning this trip. She is just a doll! She notices that we're getting droopy and suggests we go back to the hotel to rest. You don't have to tell me twice!! We will meet again at 7:00 p.m. and go to dinner.
We go to dinner, which is a 3 1/2--4 hour experience...just a typical Italian dinner. We share a risotto featuring a local perch from the lake. Among us we enjoy Veal Milanese with a red onion jelly, gnoccho with rabbit sauce, octopus with cannellini beans, and fresh mozzarella with tomato purée. And of course, we end the meal with gelato.
Knock! Knock! Knock! Buon Giorno! We've arrived in Milan. As we wrestle to wake up and get our things together to deboard the train, we have luggage falling on our heads and other mishaps in our tiny compartment. But we manage!
Although riding in a night train is an "experience", it's not the greatest for a restful sleep. So we're all a bit groggy when we arrive in Milan at 5:50 a.m. Since I had reserved the car for 10:00 a.m., (thinking when I was at home and feeling very energetic) that we could venture into Milan Central and see the famed duomo. But right now...none of us much care about another church...so we eat a little breakfast and head to the car rental. But where is this place that's supposed to be 200 meters from the station? We have to ask several people...which there aren't many about at this hour...but we find it, and get our car at 8:00 a.m.
John is our travel guide for the next few days. We are going to visit with some of his family in the town of Gravedona on Lake Como. We go to our hotel, and much to our surprise no one was in our rooms the night before so they let us check in. We freshen up and head to see the relatives.
The view from our hotel room is stunning. We are right on Lake Como, with a view of the Alps, and small villages on the hillsides. Can you beat that?
Meeting John's relatives was a treat!
Giana, John's cousin, greets us warmly and with lots of Italian. I can't understand a word but smile a lot. She is so sweet and if you concentrate and watch her eyes and gestures, you can sometimes figure out what she's trying to say. We also meet up with Nicoletta (who speaks English!!), Angelo, Stephano (who also speaks English!) and his wife Betty and their three children, Elia, Nina, and Milo. They are so cordial and friendly and offer us wine...and more wine...and more wine. My tummy is still doing flips from the Beef Tartare, foie gras, and spicy mustard I had eaten the day before, so I can't handle much wine...or food for that matter.
The children were so excited about the gifts Jacque brought.
Giana, Nicoletta, Nina, Betty, Elia
Sweet Milo
Nicoletta loves her nephews and niece.
And they adore her!
Nicoletta and Elia
Our dinner with familia
Elia, Nicoletta, John, Jacque, me, Stephano, Milo, Giana
Thursday, May 26, 2016
Night Train...an Experience
Friday, May 26
We're sleeping in! We're sleeping in!
After we leisurely get ready and get re-packed, Larry and I head out to see what can be done about my phone. We only got international coverage and a data plan for my phone because there was really no need to pay for this for two phones. But a few days into this trip my new phone decided to die. Not only have we lost contact with the outside world, John & Jacque can no longer text us...so we've lost contact with each other. It's kind of unsettling. So...off to the Apple Store we go!
And the people there were more than kind. They got my phone to work but worried it would happen again. So they gave me a new phone. Hurray!
Tonight we will be traveling by night train to Milan. So we do a bit of shopping for picnic goodies to enjoy on board. Then we head to Gare Lyon, the train station for another "adventure".
I had asked John and Jacque several times if they were game for this because I knew what traveling on a night train was like. I think it's really fun...Larry and I laughed almost non stop the last time we tried it...but it's not for everyone.
After man-handling our luggage on board, we are introduced to our cabins. If you've ever watched any old movies and have seen train cabins...this is nothing like that. The cabins are so tiny with two single beds that drop out of the wall (and when they're down they take up the width of the tiny cabin). I can see that John & Jacque are a bit surprised. But then they start to laugh...along with the many other Americans on board...and all is good.
There are great advantages to traveling by night train. You don't need to pay for train tickets and a hotel as they are combined. You get to see the lovely countryside passing by...until it gets dark. You've got your own personal cabin...with a small sink! (But no toilet...that's down the hall) so you can enjoy whatever food and drink you thought ahead to bring. I think our American neighbors are jealous of our wine, cheese, baquette, and pastry picnic.
My tummy is upset so I go to bed early, but I can hear the party next door. John and Jacque are entertaining the other Americans on board and it sounds like quite a party! Some things never change...whether you're at home or abroad.
So tonight we go to sleep in France and wake up in Italy!
We're sleeping in! We're sleeping in!
After we leisurely get ready and get re-packed, Larry and I head out to see what can be done about my phone. We only got international coverage and a data plan for my phone because there was really no need to pay for this for two phones. But a few days into this trip my new phone decided to die. Not only have we lost contact with the outside world, John & Jacque can no longer text us...so we've lost contact with each other. It's kind of unsettling. So...off to the Apple Store we go!
And the people there were more than kind. They got my phone to work but worried it would happen again. So they gave me a new phone. Hurray!
Tonight we will be traveling by night train to Milan. So we do a bit of shopping for picnic goodies to enjoy on board. Then we head to Gare Lyon, the train station for another "adventure".
I had asked John and Jacque several times if they were game for this because I knew what traveling on a night train was like. I think it's really fun...Larry and I laughed almost non stop the last time we tried it...but it's not for everyone.
After man-handling our luggage on board, we are introduced to our cabins. If you've ever watched any old movies and have seen train cabins...this is nothing like that. The cabins are so tiny with two single beds that drop out of the wall (and when they're down they take up the width of the tiny cabin). I can see that John & Jacque are a bit surprised. But then they start to laugh...along with the many other Americans on board...and all is good.
There are great advantages to traveling by night train. You don't need to pay for train tickets and a hotel as they are combined. You get to see the lovely countryside passing by...until it gets dark. You've got your own personal cabin...with a small sink! (But no toilet...that's down the hall) so you can enjoy whatever food and drink you thought ahead to bring. I think our American neighbors are jealous of our wine, cheese, baquette, and pastry picnic.
My tummy is upset so I go to bed early, but I can hear the party next door. John and Jacque are entertaining the other Americans on board and it sounds like quite a party! Some things never change...whether you're at home or abroad.
So tonight we go to sleep in France and wake up in Italy!
Moving Day in Normandy
Wednesday, May 24
I am proud to be an American! And today patriotism is coursing through my veins. We have visited Normandy and have seen the American D-Day invasion sites, as well as the Normandy American cemetery. I have been horribly saddened by the tales of what has happened on these beaches. But moreover, I am incredibly grateful for those who served.
We visited Omaha and Utah Beaches, as well as Pointe du Hoc. During the D-Day invasion, over 4,000 Allied forces' lives were lost. About 2,000 of those were American. (About 10,000 German lives were lost.)
At the cemetery, over 9,000 Americans are buried. The families of the service men who lost their lives on the European front were given a choice of whether to be buried in an European American service cemetery or returned to the USA. About 40% of the Americans lost in Normandy are buried in the Normandy cemetery.
Our tour guide, Floyd, did a fabulous job of sharing a great deal of information. He was certainly passionate about his job! He also shared tales of particular men, which made the true stories so much more personal and meaningful.
I am thankful for each and every man and woman who served our country in the armed forces. Jacque's father, Jack, landed on Utah Beach the day after D-Day. He served under General Roosevelt. I know that Jacque must have a deeper sense of appreciation for what he went through. I also appreciate my dad's service on the European front, in a much more acute way. And we were the lucky ones...our fathers returned home.
We left our apartment at 6:00 this morning to get to the train station in time for our train. And we will return to Paris at about 8:30 p.m. It's been a long, sad day...but an experience I will never forget.
Some general observations:
*One of the reasons our ground troops had such a difficult time advancing was due to the hedgerows. These are so much more than bushes. Their thick trunks intertwine to make fencing that is about 4 feet thick. And they are very tall. I never understood this before when I had read the term "hedgerows".
*"Hobart's Funnies", as they were called, were really amazing inventions that made this invasion possible. Hobart invented a tank that could roll across ditches, he added a version of hedgerow cutters to tanks, and designed an armored bulldozer to "eat up" obstacles placed on the beaches...just to name a few.
*Jewish American soldiers did not have their religion placed on their name tags, knowing that if they were captured by the Germans they would receive worse treatment.
*American soldiers seem to be very appreciated in the towns that were liberated. There are many statues of American soldiers, American flags, and even paintings on store windows.
*One of the most poignant scenes shared by Floyd took place in a church in a small town. Two American medics, one trained for two weeks and the other trained for two months, set up a camp hospital in this town church. The German battalion that was occupying this town (I can't remember the name but it was something like Faustenheizer) was a more humane division than most. They were known to follow the rules of war, which was unusual for the Germans during this war. They allowed the medics to take care of the wounded, and the medics cared for the American and German wounded. Respect was shown between opposing forces at this small church in this small town. The two medics are honored greatly in this town.
*What an amazing example of strategy was the D-Day invasion! The Allied Forces wanted Germany to think that the attack would happen at a different location. Calais seemed the most logical position for an attack as the channel is the narrowest at this point. So they did everything they could to make it look like the attack would take place there, including using blow up tanks (inflatable) to make it look like that would be the spot for an invasion.
At Utah Beach there is a restaurant called The Roosevelt. As vets of the D-Day invasion visit this café, they sign their names to the walls or the furniture. It was so moving to see these brave men's signatures throughout the building.
We finally return to Paris, and though we're certainly not dressed for fine dining, we don't feel like going back to the apartment to change. I remember that the Goularts had recommended a restaurant in our neighborhood, Au Vieux Paris d'Arcole, so we decide to give it a try.
Donna had told me to find Freddy at the restaurant, which we did. And we also met his sidekick whose name we missed but he jokingly referred to himself as Odette. These two are a little comedy team...and they mostly crack themselves up. They are quite jovial and make for a fun evening.
You are invited to pick your own bottle from their wine cellar, but first you have to brave the stairs. This is a very steep spiral staircase. But John braves it...because, after all...there is wine at the bottom! We have a very good time and start to wonder...where are the stuffy French waiters people talk about? We haven't seen one yet!
I am proud to be an American! And today patriotism is coursing through my veins. We have visited Normandy and have seen the American D-Day invasion sites, as well as the Normandy American cemetery. I have been horribly saddened by the tales of what has happened on these beaches. But moreover, I am incredibly grateful for those who served.
Omaha Beach
At the cemetery, over 9,000 Americans are buried. The families of the service men who lost their lives on the European front were given a choice of whether to be buried in an European American service cemetery or returned to the USA. About 40% of the Americans lost in Normandy are buried in the Normandy cemetery.
Our tour guide, Floyd, did a fabulous job of sharing a great deal of information. He was certainly passionate about his job! He also shared tales of particular men, which made the true stories so much more personal and meaningful.
I am thankful for each and every man and woman who served our country in the armed forces. Jacque's father, Jack, landed on Utah Beach the day after D-Day. He served under General Roosevelt. I know that Jacque must have a deeper sense of appreciation for what he went through. I also appreciate my dad's service on the European front, in a much more acute way. And we were the lucky ones...our fathers returned home.
Omaha Beach
We left our apartment at 6:00 this morning to get to the train station in time for our train. And we will return to Paris at about 8:30 p.m. It's been a long, sad day...but an experience I will never forget.
Some general observations:
*One of the reasons our ground troops had such a difficult time advancing was due to the hedgerows. These are so much more than bushes. Their thick trunks intertwine to make fencing that is about 4 feet thick. And they are very tall. I never understood this before when I had read the term "hedgerows".
*"Hobart's Funnies", as they were called, were really amazing inventions that made this invasion possible. Hobart invented a tank that could roll across ditches, he added a version of hedgerow cutters to tanks, and designed an armored bulldozer to "eat up" obstacles placed on the beaches...just to name a few.
*Jewish American soldiers did not have their religion placed on their name tags, knowing that if they were captured by the Germans they would receive worse treatment.
*American soldiers seem to be very appreciated in the towns that were liberated. There are many statues of American soldiers, American flags, and even paintings on store windows.
*One of the most poignant scenes shared by Floyd took place in a church in a small town. Two American medics, one trained for two weeks and the other trained for two months, set up a camp hospital in this town church. The German battalion that was occupying this town (I can't remember the name but it was something like Faustenheizer) was a more humane division than most. They were known to follow the rules of war, which was unusual for the Germans during this war. They allowed the medics to take care of the wounded, and the medics cared for the American and German wounded. Respect was shown between opposing forces at this small church in this small town. The two medics are honored greatly in this town.
*What an amazing example of strategy was the D-Day invasion! The Allied Forces wanted Germany to think that the attack would happen at a different location. Calais seemed the most logical position for an attack as the channel is the narrowest at this point. So they did everything they could to make it look like the attack would take place there, including using blow up tanks (inflatable) to make it look like that would be the spot for an invasion.
At Utah Beach there is a restaurant called The Roosevelt. As vets of the D-Day invasion visit this café, they sign their names to the walls or the furniture. It was so moving to see these brave men's signatures throughout the building.
A table full of vets' signatures at The Roosevelt Café
Donna had told me to find Freddy at the restaurant, which we did. And we also met his sidekick whose name we missed but he jokingly referred to himself as Odette. These two are a little comedy team...and they mostly crack themselves up. They are quite jovial and make for a fun evening.
"Odette", me, Freddy, and John enjoying our evening at d'Arcole
Wednesday, May 25, 2016
The sights....c'est Bon!
Thursday, May 25
We have a reservation for the Eiffel Tower at 11:00 and we're in no hurry to do anything before that time. It's nice to slow down a bit and enjoy our beautiful apartment.
Jacque is not fond of heights and isn't quite sure about going to the summit of the Eiffel Tower, but she's a sport and heads up with us. When we get to the top though, she clings to the building rather than venturing close to the edge for a better view. Aw Paris! The view is always mesmerizing!
Once we leave the Eiffel Tower, we decide to stroll about and find a place to eat. We find a cute little brasserie and sit outside to people watch while we dine. The others are ordering Boef Bourguignon, and I probably should have also. It looks delicious. But I wanted to be a bit braver, so I order Beef Tartare (raw beef, chopped up with other "stuff" in it). It's actually quite delicious, but very rich. I can only eat less than half, but I enjoy my new experience.
Noting the time, I think we may be able to catch the 3:00 English speaking guided tour of the Opera Garnier. So we head there. This building is amazing! This building is opulent! During our last trip we happened to arrive here about a half hour before closing and we just quickly walked around on our own. I'm hoping that the guided tour will give me more information about this amazing piece of architecture. And I am not disappointed.
Our English speaking guide is doing a great job, but her English has a heavy French accent and I need to concentrate a great deal to follow along. She takes us through the emperor's private entrance (which was built for an emperor who didn't live long enough to use his grand entrance) and the season box holders' entrance. She explained that among the upper crust, going to the opera was more about being seen than actually watching or listening to the opera. She said that personal boxes would be theirs for the whole season and some brought their own furniture and decorations to make it especially their own.
The "normal people" as she called them, would enter through the front entrance and line the grand staircase to watch the upper crust work their way to their boxes...with much pageantry of course.
This is the opera house of Phantom of the Opera fame, so they have box #5 reserved for the Phantom as it is in the book. There is a huge chandelier weighing 8 tons, which never actually fell as it did in the book, but a counter weight from the chandelier did fall and caused injury. There isn't a lake with a labyrinth of passageways under the building, but there is an area of water under the seating part of the house to act as a counterweight to the much heavier front and back of the building. Firemen use it for drills and there are a few catfish in it.
This building was built in the 1860's but in the 1960's someone had the great idea to update the marvelous opera house. So he had Chagall repaint the ceiling in a modern way. To me, it just looks out of place.
After the tour, we relax a bit and then head to a restaurant that Ivan, the apartment owner, had recommended. Another delicious meal. And since we had dinner rather early for these parts, 8:00 p.m., we decide to grab some sweet crepes for a late night snack. Yum!
We have a reservation for the Eiffel Tower at 11:00 and we're in no hurry to do anything before that time. It's nice to slow down a bit and enjoy our beautiful apartment.
Jacque is not fond of heights and isn't quite sure about going to the summit of the Eiffel Tower, but she's a sport and heads up with us. When we get to the top though, she clings to the building rather than venturing close to the edge for a better view. Aw Paris! The view is always mesmerizing!
Tour de Eiffel
One of the views from the summit
This was close as Jacque wanted to get to the view
Dreams come true!
Noting the time, I think we may be able to catch the 3:00 English speaking guided tour of the Opera Garnier. So we head there. This building is amazing! This building is opulent! During our last trip we happened to arrive here about a half hour before closing and we just quickly walked around on our own. I'm hoping that the guided tour will give me more information about this amazing piece of architecture. And I am not disappointed.
One of the "hanging out" areas at the Opera House.
It is fashioned after the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.
I make my entrance up the grand staircase to the
applause of the "normal people"
This is the opera house of Phantom of the Opera fame, so they have box #5 reserved for the Phantom as it is in the book. There is a huge chandelier weighing 8 tons, which never actually fell as it did in the book, but a counter weight from the chandelier did fall and caused injury. There isn't a lake with a labyrinth of passageways under the building, but there is an area of water under the seating part of the house to act as a counterweight to the much heavier front and back of the building. Firemen use it for drills and there are a few catfish in it.
This building was built in the 1860's but in the 1960's someone had the great idea to update the marvelous opera house. So he had Chagall repaint the ceiling in a modern way. To me, it just looks out of place.
The chandelier of Phantom of the Opera fame
with the Chagal painted ceiling above
The Opera House along with its sister theater, the Opera Bastille, employ over 2000 people. They make all their own sets and costumes. They even employ their own firemen so there won't be any mishaps. There is a presentation each evening at the Opera Garnier. But since it would be a strain on opera singers' voices to do the opera two nights in a row, they have opera one night and ballet the next. This means there is a lot of changing of sets and props each day.
I am so glad we went on this tour. We saw so many more parts of the building than we could when we were racing through on our own.After the tour, we relax a bit and then head to a restaurant that Ivan, the apartment owner, had recommended. Another delicious meal. And since we had dinner rather early for these parts, 8:00 p.m., we decide to grab some sweet crepes for a late night snack. Yum!
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